First Day Walks
A walk from Lisbon's grand flat downtown up into the oldest, hilliest neighbourhood in the city, ending with a wide river view.
Duration
3 hr 30 min
Distance
4.4 km
Difficulty
Easy to moderate
Stops
8
Best time
Late morning, from about 10:00
Photo: Arco Triunfal da Rua Augusta, Plaza del Comercio, Lisboa, Portugal, 2012-05-12, DD 02
Start
Praca do Comercio
Finish
Miradouro das Portas do Sol
Route map: Downtown to the Old Alfama Hill
A Google My Maps embed drops in here. Until then, follow the numbered stops below, they are written so the route works without a live map.
Overview
Lisbon is a city of hills, and this walk uses that fact rather than avoiding it. It starts flat, on the grand riverside square rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake, then climbs gradually into Alfama, the neighbourhood the earthquake barely touched.
Expect narrow lanes, laundry strung between buildings, and the sound of fado drifting out of small bars in the evening, even at a first glance in daylight. Alfama does not follow a grid, so this route is written landmark to landmark rather than street by street.
It ends at a viewpoint over the river and rooftops, one of the best free views in the city and a good place to sit down after the climb.
There are some genuine slopes and steps here, so it suits visitors comfortable with a bit of an incline, though nothing technical.
The route
Each stop gives you the direction from the previous one, what to look at, a practical tip and roughly how long to stay.
Direction
Start facing the river, with the yellow triumphal arch behind you.
What to see
A vast riverside square built after the earthquake destroyed the old royal palace on this spot. The scale of it says a lot about how Lisbon rebuilt itself in the 18th century.
Time here: 15 min
Direction
Walk north under the arch into the pedestrian street.
What to see
A wide, tiled pedestrian avenue lined with shops, buskers, and the occasional living statue performer, running the length of the Baixa district.
Time here: 15 min
Direction
Head east from Rua Augusta through the narrow streets for about 600 m, slightly uphill.
What to see
Lisbon's oldest cathedral, fortress-like and plain from outside, having survived multiple earthquakes since the 12th century.
Time here: 15 min
Direction
Continue uphill on Rua do Limoeiro for roughly 300 m.
What to see
The gradient increases here and the street narrows further, giving a first real sense of Alfama's tangled, hillside layout.
Time here: 10 min
Direction
The viewpoint appears on the left after about 150 m more.
What to see
A small tiled terrace with bougainvillea climbing the pergola and a sweeping view over Alfama's rooftops down to the river.
Time here: 15 min
Direction
Drop down into the maze of streets just below the viewpoint for a wander of about 400 m.
What to see
Steep stepped alleys, small grocery shops, and laundry strung across the street between buildings that barely change from decade to decade.
Time here: 30 min
Direction
If it is Tuesday or Saturday, detour uphill about 300 m to the flea market square; otherwise continue toward the final viewpoint.
What to see
Lisbon's long-running flea market, with everything from old records to secondhand tiles laid out on tarpaulins.
Time here: 20 min
Direction
Head back down toward the cathedral and follow signs for roughly 300 m to the final terrace.
What to see
A wide viewpoint over the Alfama rooftops and the river beyond, one of the most photographed spots in the city and a natural place to finish.
Time here: 20 min
Before you go
Checklist
Screenshot Mode
Save each card to your phone gallery in order. On the walk you swipe through the screenshots instead of loading maps. No app, no data, no dead battery from GPS.
Lisbon
Direction
Start facing the river, with the yellow triumphal arch behind you.
See
A vast riverside square built after the earthquake destroyed the old royal palace on this spot. The scale of it says a lot about how Lisbon rebuilt itself in the 18th century.
Navi Tip
The steps down to the river on the eastern side are a quiet place to sit, away from the cafe terraces.
Time here: 15 min
Direction
Walk north under the arch into the pedestrian street.
See
A wide, tiled pedestrian avenue lined with shops, buskers, and the occasional living statue performer, running the length of the Baixa district.
Navi Tip
You can climb the arch itself for a small fee, worth it if you want an early elevated view before the climb to Alfama.
Time here: 15 min
Direction
Head east from Rua Augusta through the narrow streets for about 600 m, slightly uphill.
See
Lisbon's oldest cathedral, fortress-like and plain from outside, having survived multiple earthquakes since the 12th century.
Navi Tip
The little tram 28 passes right by here and gets crushed with tourists, better to admire it from the church steps than try to board.
Time here: 15 min
Direction
Continue uphill on Rua do Limoeiro for roughly 300 m.
See
The gradient increases here and the street narrows further, giving a first real sense of Alfama's tangled, hillside layout.
Navi Tip
Pace yourself, there are a couple of short flat stretches ahead to recover on.
Time here: 10 min
Direction
The viewpoint appears on the left after about 150 m more.
See
A small tiled terrace with bougainvillea climbing the pergola and a sweeping view over Alfama's rooftops down to the river.
Navi Tip
The blue and white tile panels on the wall depict old Lisbon scenes, worth a slow look before moving on.
Time here: 15 min
Direction
Drop down into the maze of streets just below the viewpoint for a wander of about 400 m.
See
Steep stepped alleys, small grocery shops, and laundry strung across the street between buildings that barely change from decade to decade.
Navi Tip
Getting slightly lost here is normal and part of the experience, every lane eventually opens onto a recognisable street below.
Time here: 30 min
Direction
If it is Tuesday or Saturday, detour uphill about 300 m to the flea market square; otherwise continue toward the final viewpoint.
See
Lisbon's long-running flea market, with everything from old records to secondhand tiles laid out on tarpaulins.
Navi Tip
Bargaining is expected here, though politely, not aggressively.
Time here: 20 min
Direction
Head back down toward the cathedral and follow signs for roughly 300 m to the final terrace.
See
A wide viewpoint over the Alfama rooftops and the river beyond, one of the most photographed spots in the city and a natural place to finish.
Navi Tip
Come back around sunset another day, this same terrace gets a completely different light in the evening.
Time here: 20 min
Portuguese
Emergency number: check the local number for your country before you set off.
Swipe sideways to see every card. On a phone, take one screenshot per card.
Emergency phrases
Worth a screenshot of its own. Even a badly pronounced attempt usually gets you help.
Onde fica a casa de banho?
Where is the restroom?
Quanto custa?
How much does it cost?
Pode ajudar-me?
Can you help me?
Bom dia
Good morning
Para o eletrico 28, por favor?
For tram 28, please? (asking direction)
City notes
Built on seven hills above the Tagus, a city of steep lanes, tiled facades and views that reward the climb.
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