Pastries and Petiscos: A Lisbon Tasting Route

Direction
Start on the wide lawn in front of the monastery's south entrance, facing the carved limestone facade.

See
A vast Manueline-style monastery built on the profits of the spice trade. You do not need to go inside for this walk, but the facade alone explains a lot about how rich this parish once was.

Navi Tip
Mornings before 10:00 are far quieter here than midday, when tour buses arrive in waves.

Time here: 15 min

Direction
Walk east along Rua de Belem for about 300 m, where the famous tart bakery sits on the same street as the monastery.

See
This is the birthplace of the pastel de belem, the original version of the custard tart now copied all over the city as pastel de nata. Cinnamon and powdered sugar are on the table, not baked in.

Navi Tip
Order at the counter and eat standing at the bar if the seating area has a queue, it moves faster and costs the same.

Time here: 30 min

Direction
Cross under the railway via the pedestrian underpass opposite the bakery and walk to the Tagus riverside path, about 400 m.

See
A wide green stretch along the river with the Belem Tower visible downstream. It is a good place to walk off the first pastry before the tram ride into town.

Navi Tip
Benches facing the water on the eastern side get shade earlier in the day than the western ones.

Time here: 20 min

Direction
Catch the tram from the stop near the riverside gardens and ride it roughly 15 minutes toward the city centre, getting off at Cais do Sodre.

See
One of the classic yellow trams, running along the river rather than up the hills, so it is a comfortable one to sit and watch the docks go by.

Navi Tip
Buy a single ticket on board if you do not have a rechargeable card, the driver sells them at a small markup over the app price.

Time here: 20 min

Direction
The market hall sits directly across the square from the tram stop, under a large arched roof.

See
A converted 19th-century market hall now packed with stalls run by well-known Lisbon chefs and bakers, useful if you want to sample a wide range of Portuguese dishes side by side.

Navi Tip
Walk a full lap before ordering anything, the best stalls often have the shortest queues early in the afternoon.

Time here: 35 min

Direction
Head uphill on Rua do Alecrim for about 500 m, a steady climb into the Chiado district.

See
One of the direct routes from the river up into the old shopping district, lined with tiled buildings and small cafes. It is a working street rather than a sight, useful for getting your bearings between neighbourhoods.

Navi Tip
The pavement is smoother on the right-hand side going up, easier on ankles than the cobbled centre of the road.

Time here: 15 min

Direction
From Chiado, continue west into the Bairro Alto's grid of narrow streets, around Rua da Atalaia and Rua do Diario de Noticias, about 400 m further.

See
By day these streets are quiet, by night they turn into one of Lisbon's main nightlife areas, but the small tascas serving petiscos, grilled sardines, cured ham, garlic prawns, keep daytime hours too.

Navi Tip
Order two petiscos and a glass of vinho verde per stop rather than a full meal at one place, it is closer to how locals actually eat here.

Time here: 40 min

Direction
Walk north-west from the Bairro Alto for about 600 m, uphill again, to the garden square at Principe Real.

See
A leafy square with an enormous cedar tree spread on a metal frame, surrounded by cafes good for a final coffee or a glass of port to close the walk.

Navi Tip
The kiosk cafe in the square is a fair spot for a last coffee and has shaded outdoor seating most of the afternoon.

Time here: 20 min