Old Town Bites: A Rattanakosin Food Walk

Direction
Start at the temple gate facing Atsadang Road, with the circular ordination hall visible behind the wall.

See
A smaller, quieter royal temple than the big-name ones nearby, known for its European-tiled interior mixed with traditional Thai form. It is a calm place to start before the eating begins.

Navi Tip
Grounds are free and open most of the day. Shade is best near the eastern wall in late afternoon.

Time here: 15 min

Direction
Walk north on Atsadang then turn onto Tanao Road, about 500 m, where several open-front shops display trays of curries and stir-fries on ice.

See
Khao gaeng means rice and curry, point at two or three trays and get a plate with rice underneath. It is the everyday lunch of Bangkok, and this stretch of Tanao has kept several long-running versions going.

Navi Tip
Go for whichever tray has the most turnover, empty trays mean the kitchen refills often and nothing has sat too long.

Time here: 25 min

Direction
Continue north on Tanao for roughly 400 m toward the wide Ratchadamnoen Klang avenue.

See
This stretch has carried a reputation for pad thai for decades, wok flames visible from the street in the evening. Watch the cook toss noodles, egg, tamarind and shrimp together in under a minute.

Navi Tip
Ask for it wrapped in the thin egg omelette if offered, it is a step up from the plain version and only a little more.

Time here: 20 min

Direction
Walk east along Ratchadamnoen Klang for about 600 m until the monument comes into view in the centre of the roundabout.

See
A 1939 monument marking the shift to constitutional government, and a useful landmark that also happens to sit near some of the best boat noodle stalls in the old town.

Navi Tip
Cross using the pedestrian underpass rather than the road, traffic circles fast here and there is no proper crossing at street level.

Time here: 10 min

Direction
From the monument, head down one of the small sois branching south, about 300 m, where you will see rows of tiny bowls stacked outside a shopfront.

See
Boat noodles are served in small bowls on purpose, a legacy of noodle vendors selling from boats on the canals, so people order five or six rounds and stack the empties to tally the bill.

Navi Tip
Ask for the pork version if you are new to it, the beef with blood broth is stronger and better tried once you know you like the format.

Time here: 25 min

Direction
Walk south for about 700 m along Dinso Road until the tall red pillars of the Giant Swing appear in front of the temple.

See
A working break between courses. The temple houses one of Thailand's largest Buddha images, and the swing frame out front was once used for a Brahmin ceremony now retired for safety reasons.

Navi Tip
The steps opposite the swing are a good place to sit and let the last bowl of noodles settle before moving on.

Time here: 20 min

Direction
From Wat Suthat, continue south-east about 900 m toward the Saphan Lek area, where stalls sell fried bananas, sticky rice sweets and grilled skewers along the footpath.

See
This corner mixes an old amulet market with food stalls that serve office workers heading home. Kluay tod, fried banana, and khao niew mamuang, mango sticky rice when in season, both show up here.

Navi Tip
Buy the fried banana last of the sweets, it holds its crunch for the walk home better than the sticky rice does.

Time here: 30 min

Direction
Finish by walking west about 500 m to the river, where a paved promenade runs along the water near the bridge.

See
A wide, breezy stretch of river with cross-river ferries and long-tail boats passing. It is a good spot to end a warm evening of eating with something cold and no more food.

Navi Tip
Ferry piers here connect to the Chao Phraya boat line if you want to end the night on the water rather than the road.

Time here: 15 min