Gwangjang and Beyond: A Seoul Market Crawl

Direction
Start at the market's eastern entrance near Jongno 5-ga station, where the covered alley signage becomes visible.

See
A brief look at the market's daytime side, fabric and secondhand clothing stalls that have operated here for generations, before the food alley takes over further in.

Navi Tip
The textile section closes earlier than the food alley, so this end is quieter by early evening.

Time here: 10 min

Direction
Head into the covered alley and walk about 150 m until you see large flat griddles with pancakes frying in oil.

See
Bindaetteok are savoury mung bean pancakes, thick and crisp on the edges, often made table-side and served with a soy-vinegar dip. This is one of the market's signature dishes.

Navi Tip
Order a half portion if you plan to keep eating through the rest of the alley, a full one is a meal on its own.

Time here: 20 min

Direction
Continue about 80 m further into the alley to a counter selling small, tightly rolled gimbap.

See
Mayak gimbap, meaning addictive rather than literally narcotic, are bite-sized seaweed rice rolls with a mustard-soy dipping sauce, a Gwangjang specialty known for being easy to eat in quick succession.

Navi Tip
Ask for extra dipping sauce, it is thinner than expected and the rolls benefit from a proper dunk.

Time here: 15 min

Direction
Walk another 60 m to the section of the alley known for raw beef dishes, usually marked by trays of dark red, hand-cut beef on ice.

See
Yukhoe is Korean-style beef tartare, seasoned with sesame oil, soy and often a raw egg yolk on top, served with julienned pear. It is a market specialty worth trying even if raw beef sounds unfamiliar.

Navi Tip
Choose a stall with a visible queue of locals rather than the first one you see, turnover matters for raw dishes.

Time here: 20 min

Direction
Move about 70 m further into the alley to the stalls with large pots of red sauce simmering and trays of sliced blood sausage.

See
Sundae is Korean blood sausage, usually steamed and sliced, served with salt or a spicy dip. Tteokbokki, chewy rice cakes in a spicy-sweet sauce, sits nearby and pairs well with it.

Navi Tip
A shared plate of both is a normal order for two people, no need to order a full portion of each separately.

Time here: 25 min

Direction
Exit the market on its southern side and walk about 300 m south toward the Cheonggyecheon stream, following signs for the walkway.

See
The exit streets are lined with smaller shops selling kitchen supplies and dried goods, a working commercial strip rather than a tourist stretch, and a good contrast to the market alley behind you.

Navi Tip
Watch for delivery scooters on this stretch, the street is narrow and shared with vehicle traffic.

Time here: 10 min

Direction
Head down the steps to the stream path and walk west for about 500 m, keeping the water on your right.

See
A restored urban stream running below street level through the centre of Seoul, lined with stepping stones and quiet in the evening once the day's commuters have thinned out.

Navi Tip
The stepping stones a little further along get crowded on weekends, so cross earlier in the walk if you want a photo without a queue.

Time here: 20 min

Direction
Continue along the stream path for a further 400 m to the stone bridge marked Supyo-gyo.

See
A restored Joseon-era bridge, moved here from its original location, and a calm, well-lit spot to end an evening of market eating with the water running beneath you.

Navi Tip
Benches near the bridge are a good place to sit for a while before heading back up to street level and the subway.

Time here: 15 min